Why London?

I have been going to London once or twice a year for twenty years, and people ask, "Why London? Why so often?" Hard to answer. I think it's because London is like a second home that never fails to welcome. Never fails to surprise and excite. Once one gets past the Tower, Buckingham Palace, and the obligatory tourist stops there is this big European historical city that says: Explore. Enjoy.

Okay, so I'm a shopper. I confess. Historical sites are something I struggle through to get to the shops. And London is the big time.

Harrod's, for instance, is the world's largest department store. (If Harrod's doesn't have it, you don't need it.) Perhaps strolling a street market strikes you. Portobello Road on Saturday or Camden Passage on Wednesday are a browser's bonanza for antiques, trinkets, or fun junk.

Music lovers can hit the world's largest record store (HMV) to find thousands of international CDs. I collect 1930's German swing music (don't ask!) and I always find something rare. Books? Amazing bookstores! Each with its own specialties. I also collect biographies of lesser royal personages. At Hatchard's I found a memoir by Emperor Hirohito's sister-in-law, Princess Chichibu (don't ask!).

Food? Contrary to popular myth, London's eateries offer wonderful fare. Two of my favorites are Mings in Soho serving world-class Chinese cuisine. (Try anything with shrimp.) And if you're a summer visitor, enjoy the air conditioning (the English have yet to grasp the concept of the air conditioner). My other favorite is the Ristorante Italiano in Mayfair. Family owned for decades, it has ambiance, a friendly staff, and you tell me if you can find a better carbonara anywhere.

Evening's entertainment? Try the theatre - fabulous productions of musicals and plays. Get a copy of Time Out magazine at any newsstand and explore the listings for the Fringe (London's equivalent of Off-Broadway). Sample a reasonably priced and stimulating theatrical production.

Need a museum fix? Too many! Again prowl the pages of Time Out.

Pubs? Your choice. Mine is the Grenadier in Belgravia. Not listed and hard to find, so call me at the office for directions. This ancient pub caters to military and government people who live in the neighborhood. Every Sunday at noon they serve Bloody Marys blended from a secret recipe. Sensational! The Grenadier is a wonderful place to sip and eavesdrop on the chinless wonders who congregate high noon of a Sunday. I remember overhearing one conversation that began: "As I said to Her Majesty the other day..." As for the rest, don't ask!

      Gerald Kelley